Fans of Alexander McCall Smith's No 1 Ladies Detective Agency books featuring Mma Precious Ramotswe, and the adapted television series starring Jill Scott, will already feel like they know the Botswana capital of Gaborone. When I found myself in South Africa covering the 2010 World Cup, the opportunity to explore the neighbouring country was too good to pass up, and, intrigued by Africa Insight's "No 1 Ladies Detective Agency" literary tour, I headed for Gaborone.
Botswana Tourism
It is fair to say Gaborone does not feature on most tourists' Botswana itineraries. Typically, visitors skip the capital city and focus solely on the admittedly amazing safaris the country has to offer. Charter flights from Johannesburg and the northern hubs of Maun and Kasane directly to the safari camps of the Okavango Delta, Kalahari Desert and Chobe make it easy to bypass Gaborone, and many travel agents and guidebooks advise just that.
But my experience of Botswana was enormously enhanced by a few days' stay in the small capital city; and for fans of the No 1 Ladies Detective Agency books or series, it is a must-see destination.
Alexander McCall Smith Books
Alexander McCall Smith's books, set in Botswana and inspired by the author's stay there, have become international best-sellers. The stories revolve around the adventures of Mma Precious Ramotswe, Botswana's first lady private investigator.
In response to what is undoubtedly the city's biggest tourist draw, Africa Insight has created several tours centred around the places and characters of the No 1 Ladies Detective Agency series. Varying in length from a half day up to custom-designed five-day group trips, the tours combine content alluded to in the books — highlighted by appropriate readings — with points of local interest.
My companion and I lucked out, and happened to be the only two on the full-day tour we had chosen, so we were treated to essentially a private tour of Gaborone and the surrounding area. The day started with our delightful tour guide, Joe, collecting us at our hotel, the Gaborone Sun (itself occasionally mentioned in the series) in an open-sided touring vehicle that would attract a great deal of good-natured interest and amusement as we travelled around town.
No 1 Ladies Detective Agency Tour Highlights
Our first stop was just across from the hotel: the house on Zebra Way where Alexander McCall Smith had stayed with friends — and which inspired Mma Ramotswe's house on the fictionalized Zebra Drive. And from there, we were off on a tour that encompassed many highlights from the stories — Mma Ramotswe's childhood home, the rural village of Mochudi, where cattle still roam the streets; her favoured spot for afternoon tea, the President Hotel in Gaborone city centre; the Riverwalk Mall, where Mma Ramotswe and her assistant Mma Makutsi bought gear for their foray into the Okavango — as well as painting a vivid and intriguing picture of Botswana's people, history and culture.
One of the highlights was the set for the television series, which was built right at the site described in the books as the location of Mma Ramotswe's detective agency, at the foot of Kgale Hill. But equally interesting was a visit to the "Three Chiefs" monument, where we learned about Botswana's unique history — a slight diversion from the literary path, but as entertaining as it was enlightening.
Alexander McCall Smith's Botswana
Perhaps the most striking aspect of the tour was how, even when not specifically referencing the books, the experience revealed the essence of Alexander McCall Smith's observations on Botswana. Readers — and viewers of the show — will immediately recognize the warmth, gentleness and endearing pride of the Batswana, captured so appealingly by McCall Smith, and everywhere evident in this charming country.
The No 1 Ladies Tours are available through Africa Insight. Other tour options include a half-day tour, centred in Gaborone, skipping Mochudi; and an added-on trip to the inspiration for the books' "orphan farm," where visitors can make a donation to the local orphanage. Customized longer-stay tours can be specially designed for book club groups, and can include many different safari options as well.
Shona Black - Shona Black holds a degree in Art and Archaeology from Princeton University, and has recently returned to the field of Visual Arts after ...
